Nick and Maria write pysanky

The Basic Steps: How to Write a Pysanka

Once you have finished writing your pysanka, a few simple steps remain: removing the wax, cleaning off any soot and residual wax,

Removing the wax:

When you have finished applying wax to the design, dip the egg in the final color. Wait 5-15 minutes, then remove the egg from the dye, dab it dry, and let it sit a few minutes.  Let the shell dry completely before attempting to remove the wax.

There are many methods of wax removal, but it all come down to two categories: heat and chemical dissolution.

The other is the more “modern” way, using a candle:  Take the egg, and hold it near the side of your candle’s flame. DO NOT hold the egg over the flame, because soot will deposit on the eggshell, and you might even scorch the eggshell. Wait until the wax looks wet (only a few seconds, usually) and wipe the wax off with a clean, folded piece of paper towel. Try to always use a fresh side of the towel (or a new towel) for each wipe, or else you'll just be rubbing wax all over the egg, and it will take a lot longer to finish your egg.

Repeat section by section, until all of the wax has been removed. Denys demonstrates this method for us on the right.

Chemical dissolution: Alternatively, there is a more modern and less labor-intensive way of removing wax: chemical dissolution of the wax with a degreasing agent.  Unfortunately, all of the non-flammable degreasers have been shown to be deleterious to the environment and have been taken off the market.  

Many of the remaining cleaning solutions are benzene derivatives and are toxic as well as flammable.  Others, like mineral spirits, are combustible.  And Goof-Off, a blend of toluene and other organic solvents, which I use only for clean-up, can apparently kill you if you inhale enough of it in a and enclosed space. Make sure any solution you use is NOT water-based.

To chemically clean an egg, place a completed pysanka into a plastic container of the solvent, shut the lid, and let it soak until the wax has dissolved off. For eggs with fine lines, this may be all that is needed.  For eggs with heavier waxing, you may need to wipe the softened wax off of the egg and return it to the solvent for a longer soak.  My solvent of choice is currently odorless mineral spirits, but I no longer soak my eggs to remove wax, except in special circumstances (e.g. a crack in a full egg).

Residual wax and soot:

When removing wax with heat, there is often some residual wax left on the egg at the end of the process.  Rather than risk scorching the egg or getting soot on it by chasing down these last bits of wax, chemical removal can be used.  A small amount of any degreasing solvent can be placed on a tissue, and the surface of the egg wiped down. I often use a bit of Goof-Off  or mineral spirits on a Kleenex for just this purpose.

Goo Gone, which smells nice and citrusy, works too slowly to be useful as a whole egg degreaser, but is great for removing small amounts of residual wax, as well as soot. Hold the egg in the palm of your gloved hand, put a few drops of Goo Gone on it, and coat it evenly.  Wait a few minutes to let it work, and then gently dry the egg with a tissue.

Removing Pencil Lines:

Most pencil lines will come off with the wax if you are removing wax using a candle. Really!

If you still have some remaining pencil lines, an art gum or white architect’s eraser can be used to erase pencil lines.  Do not rub too hard, as you might scratch the cuticle of the egg and cause unsightly marks. Goof-Off, an all-purpose residue remover, also does a pretty good job of removing pencil lines, I apply it with a tissue, and rub gently.  Make sure you use the oil-based version, and not the wipes, as they are water based, and will remove the color, too!

If you are making a two-color egg, and one of those colors is white, or are making an egg with a lot of white in it, it may be worth while to remove as much pencil as possible before dyeing the egg in the first dye.  This is especially true if you want a non-black final color.  Black usually hides pencil lines well; colors such as red or light blue do not.

In this case, I use Goof-Off Wipes (they are water-based) and wipe down the egg well after I am done waxing.  This will remove the pencil from the areas that will be colored.  Once the wax is removed, I remove those lines, if needed, as above.

Note that you cannot use regular Goof Off before the wax is removed, as it will remove wax and destroy your pattern.

Finishing up:

If you’ve been working on full eggs, you now need to decide whether to leave the egg intact, or drain the egg contents. Eggs which have not been emptied may leak or explode.  This is not pleasant.........to say the least. 

Varnishing: If you don’t wish to empty the eggs, you should not varnish them, to decrease the probability of explosion. Gases will build up inside the varnished shell and, if there is any weakness in the shell, the egg can explode. If you don’t varnish, there is a good chance that inside will dry up over time. You can give these eggs a coating of vaseline to make them slightly shiny and to give them some protection from water. Just put a dab of vaseline in your hand, roll your egg in it to coat it thoroughly, and then wipe off the excess with a tissue.

If you plan to empty your eggs (or are working with emptied eggs), you may wish to apply a glossy finish to the egg once completed. I use clear gloss urethane, a synthetic varnish. Apply a very thin layer of varnish with your fingers (I wear disposable gloves, as it is very difficult to wash off) and set on a drying rack to dry. It usually takes at least 24 hours for the varnish to dry completely (longer if the air is damp, as in the summer). 

Emptying: If you wish to empty the pysanka, there are many ways to do, and many devices being sold to help you.  For detailed info, read here.

Note: eggs which have become cracked during the pysanka-making process should not be cleaned with heat, nor emptied with an egg blower, as the pressure form the heat and/or blower will cause the shell to spit and the egg contents to run out.  Use a syringe and needle to slowly and gently suck the egg contents out through either a single or double hole.  (See here for details.)

Rinsing: Once the egg has been drained of its contents, you should rinse it out thoroughly.  Small bits of egg left behind can smell, and may leak eventually out of the drain hole.  This may be done by injecting water into the emptied shell with a syringe (10 to 20 cc), shaking the water around to loosen and dissolve the remaining egg contents, and then blowing (or suctioning) the water out.

Drying out: Once the egg has been emptied, it needs to dry out.  Let it set on a drying rack or in an egg carton at least overnight. This will  allow the last of the water or egg contents to drain out.  If using an egg carton, use a paper one, as the paper will wick the water away from the egg, much as a disposable diaper wicks water away from a baby’s bottom.  A foam egg carton will allow water to pool, and the water can seep under the varnish and dissolve the dye, leaving white blotches around the hole.

To aid in drainage, you can insert a twist of paper towel into the drain hole.  This will aid the water in wicking out. I remove and insert such twists until no more water wicks out.

Afterwards, you can clean the surface of the egg with water or even a mild detergent, to remove any yolk or white spatters.

Storing the eggs:

Proper storage will help you keep and enjoy your pysanky for years to come. Some tips:

Keep the pysanky out of direct light and heat.  The light can fade the colors, and both light and heat can cause unemptied eggs to leak and explode.

Do not shake or agitate unemptied pysanky; this can cause them to explode. NEVER pick up pysanky and shake them!

Do not store unemptied pysanky in air tight containers; it is best if air can circulate around the eggs.  Paper egg cartons are best for this.  Styrofoam are fine for emptied pysanky, and are a good way of recycling them.

Enjoy your pysanky––display them and show them off, and give them as gifts.  Pysanky stand up to time quite well; I still have eggs that I made forty+ years ago!

You can download a previous .pdf version of this page Basic Steps 2.pdf.  Please feel free to print it out and share it (e.g. classes).  If you wish to reproduce this content in a publication, or on another web site, please ask.

Web page updated 2-21-2019

Note:  All photos, illustrations and text © Luba Petrusha 2007. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction prohibited without expressed consent.  May contact via e-mail (link below).

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